Prop it up and leave space behind the pin to push it out. The gun should be oriented so its left side is up, probably with the barrel pointing to your left. You might even apply a little CLP to the pin and let it set a minute to help it loosen up. Now remove the two pins under the barrel.
These are tapered so they only move one direction. I used a little masking tape to help keep from marring the block. Keep these pins in the right orientation when you remove them so they go back in the right way, too.
Lock it down in a vice, or clamp it to an edge and get to work. Also, take a look and make sure you trim it low enough to fit under the handguard.
Lastly, I was surprised at how easily the metal cut away so start gently and work into it. Use your file or emery paper or rotary brush to clean up the edges and remove burs produced by cutting. You should paint or use some bluing agent to protect the steel. But, I had some automotive spray paint on hand, and so I tried it out. If you choose to paint, be sure to completely mask the holes and bushings so the block will fit back on the barrel and the pins will fit back in their holes.
Now position the gun so its right side is up on the bench. Put it up on the blocks again so that your hammer strokes will drive straight down on the block and not put pressure on the rest of the gun. Put the gas tube back in the gun, and the slide the gas block onto the barrel and fit the tube in place.
Do I have to install a new gas block when I remove the sight? It seems like everything I see with front sight remove and hand guard changes there is mention of new gas blocks. Just want to make sure I order the correct parts, appreciate any help you can give. The hand guard I was considering is below. Quoted: Hello all, Sorry if this has been asked before, new to the AR platform. You have a lot of reading to do. The AR is gas operated direct gas impingement or DI for short.
Gas block you have an expensive single shot rifle. It also provides no benefit. If I'm reading this right, you want to add a rail system and use a folding front sight or no front sight at all?
Do you wish your rifle to continue to function as a semi auto? Do you wish to not have a 38,psi blast of searing hot gas blasting upwards from the middle of your barrel? I suspect both of those are yes so yes you need some kind of gas block. The front sight you wish to remove also functions as a gas block. The gas block is the essential component that connects the gas port on the barrel to the gas tube which is the conduit for the energy source for the operating system of the rifle.
Quoted: You have a lot of reading to do. Ok so I will need a gas block. I ordered a Nikon P scope so I want to remove the A2. So correct me if I'm wrong, if I get a new gas block I can get a free float hg and remove the a2. Quote History. Quoted: Ok so I will need a gas block. Quoted: Correct.
Many prefer that configuration with a longer handguard nowadays, either a rifle length or even longer free float. The best choice in gas blocks for a barrel that has "pin scars" is a clamp on type, not the type that uses set screws. Be advised that not all gas blocks will fit under all handguards And just so you know, with a scope the front sight base will be at most a barely discernable shadow at the bottom of the image, its not an optical problem.
View Quote View All Quotes. Quoted: Quoted: Ok so I will need a gas block. Quoted: Ok so then could I leave my front sight and use the rail I linked? I think this is the case but want to be sure. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Ok so I will need a gas block. It is not necessary to remove the front sight to use a magnified optic as most scopes will focus past it making it virtually invisible.
Proficiency with standard sights is recommended before moving to an optic, and its always good to have the rear sight to use in the event of a failure in your primary optic. Quoted: You could. If I may be so bold, what do you plan on needing the handguard for? You should never mount an optic on a handguard like that, and especially, never use an optic to bridge between the receiver and a handguard. If you just want to put a light or something on there, you might consider the MOE SL handguards as an alternative to a rail type handguard.
The Magpul handguard will allow for the addition of accessories such as lights and vertical grips. Quoted: The Magpul handguard will allow for the addition of accessories such as lights and vertical grips.
Quoted: The A2 front sight IS the gas block, and the gas block is a necessary part in order for the rifle to function. It directs gas off the barrel and down the gas tube back into the receiver to drive the bolt carrier. So, yes, you need a gas block, and if you remove the A2, you'll have to replace it with another block. Additionally, the hand guard you have chosen is not free-floated and requires the same forward hand guard cap that the stock plastic hand guard uses, and the gas block is right in front of this cap and holds it, and the hand guard, in place.
Quoted: Yes look at magpul much better product than what you linked. As far as the optic don't worry about the A2 front sight the optical will look right past it you won't even know it's there. Quoted: Quoted: The Magpul handguard will allow for the addition of accessories such as lights and vertical grips.
FWIW in the DIY section there's a great write up on how to cut off the front sight base and leave the gas block portion. Then just cut off your delta ring and find a two piece rail that clamps to your existing barrel nut. No removal of the existing gas block, no removal of the barrel nut. This was the first mod I did to my first AR and all you need is a dremel tool and some diagonal cutters. I went with a Troy Alpha rail as recommended in the writeup. Quoted: Awesome, thank you very much for your help.
Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: The Magpul handguard will allow for the addition of accessories such as lights and vertical grips. Just got the scope yesterday, will repaint after I get it sighted in. ETA: and no, you don't see the front sight unless you look through the scope from about a foot away.
When looking through it normally, you don't see the post. So what I think you should really do is go shoot the rifle a bit. Read a bit on how it works, and take it apart far enough to understand what parts do what and why. It kinda seems like you're throwing darts in the dark here. I'm not trying to be overly critical but the fact is that if you don't understand how the rifle functions, why are you modifying it?
0コメント